Bondi, NSW. Missed Sculpture By the Sea, Again!

 Oops! Can’t believe I’ve missed Sculpture by the Sea again! Even getting up before sunrise didn’t help yesterday. An early start would mean beating all the traffic and the heat. Not a problem today though as I was waylaid only … Continue reading

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Hiking and Tramping, USA & NZ. Arm Chair Hiking with Bill Bryson****4stars

What to do on a Rainy Day?

      

It’s been pouring with rain this week and a wonderful opportunity to listen to Bill Bryson’s A Walk in the Wood an unabridged audiobook from audible.com. Having tramped some of  New Zealand tracks it’s great to hear his adventures and be able to sympathize with the pleasures and pains of hiking from a warm, dry haven with everything close at hand, while it still pours outside. Bill walked an amazing 870 miles (1400km!) which makes the 33.5 mile Milford Track (54km) a stroll in the park but wet is wet, rocky is rocky, tired and sore is tired and sore, regardless. I would highly recommend this book to any walkers wherever they trek. Although, Bill somehow manages to hike 40% of the 2200 mile Appalachian Trail, the reality is that there’s always one more mountain to climb and after hiking you will see yourself and our busy world very differently. This is my first Bryson book and I really enjoyed his personable style so perhaps I’ll try some other titles about Australia like Down Under or a Sunburned Country.

        

Still pouring and I could go walking in the rain but I have the luxury of choice from my cosy haven. If you’ve ever wondered about American food and Reuben sandwiches then  check out bother to hover. Morning tea anyone? No rock cakes, please!!!

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Leura, NSW. Flowerpot Scones ***3 Stars.

What: Wayzgoose Cafe
Where: 174 Leura Mall, Leura, NSW   Ph: 4784 1973
When: 7 days
Web: www.wayzgoosecafe.com.au
Value: Excellent      Cost: Flower Pot Scone $5.50 with plenty jam & cream.
 

Quaint but Crusty & Chewy

Have often looked at the Wayzgoose cafe and meant to try their flower pot scones which I haven’t seen anywhere else. Booth seating is always popular and I was able to sit in the front & watch the world go by.  At first, it seems rather curious to have a scone inside a flower pot but why not. The serving was definitely generous but the texture was a bit dry making it crusty on the outside and chewy on the inside. The jam was very plain and runny and I would have liked a nice lumpy, bumpy jam to go with the lumpy, bumpy scone. Even stranger to be able to cut the scone like a roll and dip the slices in the jam and cream.

    

Continued on to Katoomba and got some exercise finding a parking spot and checking out the main street, it’s very steep. At the top of the hill is the Carrington, hidden behind a park with gardens, by the bus stops. Today, even though it’s late November, it was quite dark inside although the stain glass by the front door would male the verandah lovely on a warmer day . Here’s the menu. Devonshire teas are served daily with tea or coffee for $11.50 while High Teas are only served on Sundays from 2.30-5.00 pm. Here’s the Grand High Tea Menu, which I’m happy to see includes fruit for those who haven’t such a sweet tooth. Already had enough today, so I’ll need to return soon and try the scones or a meal at the Old City Bank Bar next door.

  

Absolutely pouring with rain today but as I drove away towards Leura, the fog rolled across the road and the visibility was terrible so we crept along, even past Wentworth Falls until around Lawson where it cleared. Phew, and it was only lunchtime!

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Washington DC, USA. Queen Elizabeth’s Drop Scones.

What’s Cooking Uncle Sam?

  

Hi there,

As your special envoy on the USA at present, I felt bound to record Queen Elizabeth IIs scone recipe that she shared with President Eisenhower in 1960. It was part of the What’s Cooking Uncle Sam exhibition at the Archives of the USA in Washington, DC. Here it is…

DROP SCONES (Pancakes)                   4 teacups of flour                                                                                                                           4 tablespoons caster sugar                                                                                                             2 teacups milk                                                                                                                                  2 whole eggs                                                                                                                                      2 teaspoons bicarbonate soda                                                                                                      3 teaspoons cream of tartar                                                                                                        2 tablespoons melted butter

Beat eggs, sugar and about half the milk together.                                                                       Add flour and mix well together adding remainder of the milk as required, also bicarbonate and cream of tartar.                                                                                                 Fold in the melted butter.

Enough to feed 16 people (this latter is written as an extra note and underlined).

The recipe accompanied a charming letter to Eisenhower dated 21 January 1960′ and signed Elizabeth R. The letter suggests that Eisenhower rather enjoyed these scones when he visited Balmoral and had asked for the recipe. It seems the humble scone is also appreciated in the best houses.

What is also interesting to me is that there are no cooking instructions included in the recipe (unless there is a page missing from the exhibition). I presume that everyone is presumed to know how to cook drop scones so it was considered unnecessary. Might need some research to find out the correct way. (Here’s some more instructions)

The letter and recipe were on display as part of the exhibition at the National Archives in Washington DC. There is a book associated with the exhibition but this recipe seemed to be the best part so I stood leaning on the display case in the exhibition and scrawled the recipe down on my hotel notebook – word for word based on the Queen’s own letter. That’s the closest to her that I’ll get. She did have a lovely warm, polite manner in her letter and flowing handwriting.

There you go. You never know what you will find when you go hunting in the archives 🙂

Enjoy.

Chantilly VA.   Follow our travels:  www.bothertohover.wordpress.com

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Katoomba, NSW. Explorers’ Tree Follow Up…

Blue Mountains Library Clarifies…

Impressed by the common sense approach of John Low, the Local Studies Librarian at Blue Mountains City Library in an article on the Explorers’ Tree. He concludes with:

What are we to make of the considerable variation in detail that characterises these accounts of the marked tree ? Does it arise from genuine human error (lapse of memory) or deliberate fabrication ? Perhaps there was more than one tree ? Such questions are difficult, if not impossible, to answer and the debate is sure to continue for many years.

Whatever conclusion we come to about the tree’s links to Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth, the fact remains that its symbolic association with the period of exploration is well established.

The quaint little wayside shrine that it has become is, nonetheless, one of the most powerful icons of Blue Mountains folklore. 

Or as one relative liked to say, ” Why spoil a good story with the truth?”

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Katoomba, NSW. The Saga of the Explorer’s Tree continues…

Australia’s Original Blarney Stone (Tree)!

 Fact or Fiction? Does it matter?

Seemed such a simple story but it isn’t. Apparently, it is questionable whether the tree was ever marked in 1813 by the explorer’s Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth. Quite innocently, just looking for pictures when I found this image and an excellent discussion of it’s questionable history and existence, on the Six Foot Track Marathon Website. The Explorers Tree is by the main Western Highway and marks the beginning of the Six Foot Track, where the race also starts. A few years ago we did part of the Six Foot Track, namely the descent into the Megalong Valley which was steep but fine until we had to go back UP the way we’d come, to get back to our car. Next time I might take a horse, that’s why it’s six foot wide and was made as a bridle track. Here’s the details for the three day 45 km walk  or the guided walk. It’s on my list of to do’s.

    

Ever heard of blazing a trail or scarred trees? It’s not a fire but square or triangular marks cut into the lower trunk of a tree by surveyors. Ahah! I’ve seen old metal ones before but thought kind folk did that to mark a walking track. Probably, it was the same thing originally.  Anyway, in 1884 they blazed a trail from the Explorers Tree down the Megalong Valley and across to the caves we now know as Jenolan Caves. However in 1901, the predecessor of Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum ordered 3 timber samples to be taken from the Explorers Tree, which was a White Mountain Ash (Eucalyptus regnans). It still has one marked  “Part of the tree marked by Blaxland – Lawson – Wentworth – being the furthest distance recorded in their first attempt to cross the Blue Mountains. A.D. 1813.” Couldn’t find a date for when the tree was actually lopped but it maybe around 1894. Wonder if the specimen was from the top or the stump that survives today?

Intertwined with the story of the Explorer’s tree is competition for the tourist trade to the Caves, which were discovered about 1838 and soon attracted the interest of travellers before being proclaimed as  Jenolan Caves Reserve in 1866 and as Jenolan Caves in 1884. At first, there were honorary guides until 1867 when a Keeper of the Caves, Jeremiah Wilson was appointed who was granted land in 1878 to build the original Caves House. Afurther two stories were added by 1887 but it all burnt down in 1895. Here’s an excellent book on the caves called Beneath the Surface from google books. The Caves had electricity from 1880, long before Sydney did in 1904.

In 1884, the Six Foot track was proposed as a shortcut to the caves as Katoomba was being bypassed by the train to Mt Victoria where there was a train connection to Tarana. In 1879, Tarana was the only town where it was possible to take a coach all the way to the caves, a monopoly which it enjoyed for ten years.

Next we return to Trove and explore the rivalries and follow the demise of the Explorer’s Tree. It’s all about competition. There’s so many wonderful stories and pictures which I may include in the future. The three Grand Hotels in the Blue Mountains included the Imperial Hotel at Mt Victoria opened in 1878. Katoomba’s Great Western Hotel opened in 1882 and was renamed the Carrington Hotel in 1886 after Lord Carrington who also features prominently in the story of our tree, the Medlow Bath Hotel and Palace which became known as the Hydro Majestic opened in 1904 and had a portion of the Explorer’s tree still in 1910. Below is the original caves house and the new Jenolan Caves House which was rebuilt in 1898.



In the 1880’s Mt Victoria became the ‘Gateway to Jenolan Caves’, or so they thought. It seems that no-one had heard of the Explorer’s tree before the Six Foot track was proposed. None the less, it was an excellent means of diverting unsuspecting tourists to Katoomba instead of Mt Victoria by saving them a lot of travelling time and discomfort. Perhaps the Powerhouse Museum, State Library of NSW or the Art Gallery of NSW may have some old pictures or documents that might shed a different light. Regardless, it was extremely successful. In 1888, an article promoting the Blue Mountains  made no mention of the Explorers Tree but included a poem by Henry Lawson called “The Blue Mountains” The Words are here. No matter who questioned it’s authenticity,  it wasn’t what people wanted to hear so the Explorer’s Trees’ story survived, especially once Federation and World War I were approaching. Today, it’s still a good rest stop for travellers.

What will happen in 2013 to commemorate 200 years since the Crossing of the Blue Mountains? Planting a new tree with a proper monument to all our early explorers, including George Bass, would be great. Add The Explorer’s Tea Rooms and tell the trees’ many stories and it would be just perfect!

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Explorers Tree, Katoomba. Well & Truly Past it’s Prime!

An Explorers’ Tree in a Cage.

What a great photo! Don’t you love those hats!

By about 1900 the Tree was  lopped. This photo from Blue Mountains Library Local Studies Collection says: First recorded use of the term Surveyors Tree; Star Photo Co (King St, Sydney 1899-1900). The top section of the tree was displayed in the grounds of the Hydro Majestic from 1906, the wall which probably killed the tree, was erected 1882 with this original plaque which shows only the last names of the explorers; a later replacement plaque included their first names.

Here’s the new plaque and a new wire fence.This photo is from Wildwalks who show a short two hour bushwalk from Farnell Rd to the Explorers Tree and back. There’s so many sad looking pictures of the Explorer’s Tree at Katoomba on Trove at the National Library. In 1884, the wall & fence were erected by Hon. J. Farnell, Minister for Lands.

  

Here’s what the Tree looks like today. Torturous isn’t it? Maybe it’s time to plant a new White Mountain Ash  to commemorate this one marked by Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth in 1813 as they looked for a route over the mountains. Why not 2013! If you have any old photos or postcards of the tree it would be great to add them to the story. At least the nearby Rosellas are happy.

Now back to Trove to see what the newspapers say:                                                                 Wow! The Town and Country Journal from 1884  shows an illustration for the proposed Six Foot Track and has what was actually marked on the tree and a possible reason for why it died. To be continued…….. (Drum roll).

Get a bit carried away don’t I? Thought this was a simple story about a dead tree!

 
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Medlow Bath, NSW. The Hydro Majestic Waits Patiently……..

The Iconic Vision Continues????

The Hydro Majestic Hotel at Medlow Bath was once the crowning glory of the Blue Mountains but now it lies patiently waiting for a new lease of life. Perched on the top of the escarpment with wonderful views of the Megalong Valley there is little obvious activity.Let’s consider. Perhaps the Hydro could become Scone Heaven, the Devonshire Tea & High Tea capital of the Southern Hemisphere, though obviously not yet.

  

Somewhere in the dark ages before digital photos I must have a picture of the tea room & Megalong Valley taken from inside the Hydro. This was the first place I ever saw High Teas but it was rather dark & dingy, as I recall. Feel free to send me any old Hydro pictures you may have so we can continue the saga. The Blue Mountains City Library has a wonderful collection of old postcards, which includes the Hydro Majestic, in their image library. The dining room incorporates the gold digger, Edward Hargraves original house. From the photos below, it only looks like the hedge has received some Tender Loving Care while the buildings appear, from the gate, to be untouched. What a massive undertaking to restore such a building but let’s hope this old character survives.

      

Best of Luck to All involved with this project! It’s owned by Lilianfels in Katoomba so perhaps I should empty my piggy bank ($55) & try the daily High Tea at Lilianfels Lounge first!

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Megalong Valley, NSW. Country Style Devonshire Teas ****4 stars.

What: Megalong Valley Tea Rooms    Today:**** 4 stars. Generous Devonshire Tea.
Where: Megalong Road, Megalong Valley NSW 2785      Phone:02 4787 9181
When: Open 9am Daily.
Web: http://www.megalongtearooms.com
Value: Ok for generous servings.      
Cost $9.95 for Devonshire tea (3 scones) Tea or Coffee Extra.
Notes: Home made Berry Jam, Man sized quantities!

Love those Man Sized Scones!

By turning left at Blackheath Railway and following the 10km of winding country road that passes through a rainforest oasis you enter the Megalong Valley, a hidden gem. Looking across the horse paddocks and gum trees and back up the escarpment there’s the Hydro Majestic Hotel straddling the clifftop. At the moment it’s closed but there’s great views of it from the Megalong Valley Tea Rooms.

  

After looking for Waratahs through the bush at Blackheath, it was a welcome break to sit among the country style grounds of the Tea Rooms and watch the world go by. Well actually, most visitors were also heading for the Tea Rooms. If you listen carefully, you could hear the blue wrens nearby, or the noisy currawongs.

  

Country hospitality abounds with oodles of home made jam, cream and 3 scones. Don’t the scones look a bit like the 3 sisters? The scones were very light and crusty on the outside. The generous helpings and man sized scones always appeal to our male family members.

  

After looking for waratahs, visiting Evans Lookout & Govett’s Leap at Blackheath as well as the Explorer’s Tree and the HydroMajestic along the way, we were starving so it was quite late when we left the Megalong Tea Rooms. Which means there’s plenty more to tell next time.

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Evans Lookout, Blackheath, NSW. Waratah Bingo!!!!!!

How Tall is a Waratah?

Too tall for me! Where’s a step ladder when you need one? Nowhere near Evans Lookout that’s for sure! Rather glorious to be walking along and spy such beautiful flowers. Fortunately, trying a lighter, compact camera helped in some ways.

Now it’s time for a walk to the Lookout and a drive to the nearby Megalong Valley Tea Rooms for MAN sized scones!

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